REMEMBER THAT PREVENTION IS BETTER THAN THE CURE

Only a Licensed Veterinarian can give medical advice but we can tell you
what has worked for us over the years:

1. WE FEED HIGH-QUALITY FOOD as Science Diet & Iams because good nutrition is vital for good health.   A little Evaporated milk in a bowl on your lap in the morning & canned food or table scraps cut small & placed in a treat dish, on your lap, in your recliner, every evening, will teach your kitty that your lap is a very nice place to be.  We never clip nails, give medicine, or pull out a mat on our laps.  The hands are for petting & not for grabbing the kitty's tummy to make them bite.  That may look cute when they are little,
but when they grow up, they will jump to bite your hands while you are on the computer, etc & will make you mad & it's your fault. Play with them with dangly toys & laser lights, but not with your hands!  

2. WE DEWORM OUR CATS MONTHLY and our kittens we worm at 4 weeks of age and every 2 weeks until 6 months old & then monthly.  We use Strongid Wormer, proportionate mgs to their weight, mixed into their favorite canned food.

3. IF DIARRHEA OCCURS & they have wormed already, something else is wrong.  We use an over-the-counter anti-diarrheal pill to stop fluid loss immediately then we start kitty's on Albon for Coccodia for 10 days (from a Vet.)   While on Albon we give a Tsp. of cottage cheese or vanilla yogurt a few times a day to restore the natural flora in the intestines.  If Albon doesn't stop diarrhea within 2 days we suspect Giardia so we use Metronidazole (6-11 mg/lb every 12 hours,  for  5 days, from a Vet).  If we treat for Worms, Coccidia, and Giardia and still there is diarrhea, then possibly food is the problem, but in our case, the food has never been the problem. Sometimes NO Worms, Coccidia, or Giardia were manifest in the stool sample but treating them anyway stopped diarrhea, so one of them was the cause but was not seen in the stool sample.

4. WE GROOM OUR CATS WEEKLY & BATHE THEM MONTHLY, Kittens twice/month.  We prepare warm water in the kitchen sink & add 3 cap fulls of bleach/gallon of water; then we put the kitty on the counter and clip its claws, 10 in the front, 8 in the back. We comb them to remove any mats, dip the kitty gently into the water stroking them gently to coat their entire body. Then we place the kitty on a towel on the counter & pour a warm soap mixture over the kitty (made of Head & Shoulders Shampoo or Dawn & warm water).  We massage them for 5 minutes, then rinse them well, towel dry them for 1 minute, change towels & then continue massaging and combing them. If we decide to blow dry we carefully start the dryer a few feet away & gradually bring it toward the kitty while talking softly & gently massaging them. A bath helps them feel good, prevents skin problems & kills parasites.

5. WE USE FLEA PREVENTION MONTHLY. After a bath, drying & brushing we put the kitty on
the counter or the table and put  Advantage Flea Prevention or Revolution after 6 mos. old (according to their weight) on the kitty's back between the shoulder blades. (CAUTION:   EAR MITE MEDS, ADVANTAGE II,  REVOLUTION ETC ARE INSECTICIDES & CAN CAUSE AN ALLERGIC REACTION)

6. TO KEEP KITTY OFF OF THE TABLE AND COUNTER: We simply do things the kitty must have done (like #5 above) in places that we do not want them to go. They must get flea prevention, have their claws clipped and hair mats removed, which things they don't enjoy, so we put them on the table & the counter to do these tasks. We never do things they hate on our lap! We don't allow easy access to high places like the counter or table or tall kitty towers so they don't injure their backs, sprain ankles, or injure their internal organs which can cause Peritonitis.

7. IF KITTY QUITS USING THE LITTER PAN OR MISSES THE PAN:  CLUMPING litter can clump into a cement block in the intestines so we don't use it AT ALL...  NEVER. If our kitties are over 1 year old & not yet neutered they may be missing the pan on purpose to attract a mate with their smell.  Please do not scold them. They will not understand but think you hate them! They are not being bad or getting back at you!   Please get them neutered!  Older males' strong urine smell takes a month or 2 to disappear after they are neutered. Don't be mad at them!

8. IF OUR KITTY IS NEUTERED and STILL MESSING OUTSIDE THE PAN THESE COULD BE REASONS:
a. Litter may not be clean enough or dirty clothes stink & the kitty thinks, "Oh this is where they want me to potty!"
b. Using a new litter or one of poor quality may hurt the kitty's little tender feet.
c. If we moved the litter pan & forgot to put the kitty in it, they can't find it.
d. If there is insufficient lighting our kitty won't step where they can't see what they are stepping on.
e. If the litter is closer than 6 ft from the kitty's food (kitty won't potty near its food because it smells up the area.)
f.  If we changed homes or someone comes to live with us, our kitty may be scared so needs consoling.  Daily gentle petting & brushing, a fresh catnip capsule from the Herb Store sprinkled in their bed & onto their dry food, or plug-in Enzymes helped us.
g. If kitty is not wormed monthly & has runny stools it can be difficult to get to the pan in time (see #2)
h. Kitty may have Coccidia or Giardia since it licks its feet and ingests what we bring into the home on our shoes; unless we are Oriental and remove our shoes at the door.
i. If we have a new baby or a new pet or a relative is visiting, our kitty may be scared of the newcomer & mark territory to try to run them out. We provide an extra litter pan in a less-trafficked area (like a closet) & give them extra attention, food & love.

Kittys need comfort, love, lots of our time & never scolding or hitting.  This is abuse!  
If we treat them right, the result is a wonderful pet that will bring us joy & happiness & love us for many years.

PROVERBS 12:10 says,
"The righteous one is caring for the soul of his domestic animal."

Keep in close touch with your Veterinarian because they love your pet too.